Capturing cultures with OLYMPUS

In my travels, I’ve primarily explored regions within Southeast Asia, as detailed in my previous article for Olympus Passion. I’ve also ventured into South Asia, including India, Nepal and Pakistan, as well as parts of North America and the Pacific. Throughout these countries, which are vastly different from one to the next, I’ve slowly understood, subconsciously, what truly captivates me in both travel and photography, that being the exploration of traditional culture.

We are currently in a unique era where the past and present seamlessly coexist. Across the globe, many people continue to embrace traditional or nomadic ways of life, with minimal alterations to their age-old practices, yet we have our booming modern existence, magnified in cities that function and rely on the digital realm of technology.

So, in an era of rapid change, preserving the practices of cultures and their people is as crucial for me as it is fascinating, and with this, photography has become a means of detailing the intangible: Intricate details that are vulnerable to the passage of time.

This visual time capsule we ALL contribute to becomes a gift for future generations, a bridge connecting them to their roots or heritage, and to discover lifestyles that might resonate more deeply with their values and aspirations.

With this in mind, my latest trip saw me visit two regions vastly different from previously travelled, not only to diversify my image portfolio but to challenge my own beliefs and get as far out of my comfort zone as possible.

EGYPT:
In the land of pharaohs, praise and pyramids, is there anywhere more culturally significant and steeped in history? From the echoing chants inside Cairo’s old mosques to the ancient pillars lining the banks of the Nile, every corner holds a piece of antiquity, and capturing daily life throughout the country unveils a story that melts the oldest facets of human existence with the current expanse of modernity.

LADAKH:
Nestled in the Himalayas, Ladakh is a realm of monasteries, monks, prayer flags, and breathtaking landscapes. Here, time seems to have taken a step back, preserving traditions that resonate with a deeply spiritual way of life, making it a fascinating subject for cultural photography. The vibrant festivals, adorned with ornate costumes and centuries-old rituals, become an evocative representation of a culture that has endured the hardships of exile, yet still finds beauty in the little things.

MY CURRENT KIT

The Olympus OM-D E-M1 with the M.Zuiko 12-40mm F2.8 PRO
Both were released ten years ago, so why this camera and lens?

Reliability is indispensable:
It’s a must for travel and documentary photography, and it easily withstands everything I throw at it, such as on this trip, going from 42° degree blistering heat in the Egyptian desert (including a sandstorm) to 4500m of altitude in the freezing snow and howling winds of the Himalayas, and not ONCE was there an issue over the two months, and again, remembering this body and lens is ten years old.

To go unnoticed (or as much as possible):
The compact nature of my OM-D E-M1 also allows for inconspicuous yet impactful photography crucial for capturing candid moments in culturally sensitive settings.

In the mosques of Egypt and the Monasteries of Ladakh, during prayer, silence is golden, as you are there to witness without ANY intrusion, so the priceless feature on this trip was the Silent Shutter Mode. The sound of a shutter clicking away on Burst Mode during prayer is to worshipers as annoying as a mosquito buzzing at your ears when sleeping, and I witnessed this first-hand as multiple people throughout this trip with noisy mirrored and distractive larger format cameras were asked to leave during ceremonies because of this seemingly small, yet impactful intrusion.

Quality (newer is not always better):
With how advanced the Olympus micro four-thirds technology was upon its release, exceptional image quality and performance were already present within the original Olympus OM-D E-M1. Technical specifications, in my belief, are truly irrelevant when aiming to capture impactful and truthful images.

Cost (and my upgrade):
I spent ten years with my Olympus OM-D E-M5.

With countless shutter releases, surviving the notorious “Checked Baggage”, removal of its LCD screen and numerous overseas adventures together, it was sadly time for its retirement. I looked at replacing it with the same E-M5 model, but I found a second-hand Olympus OM-D E-M1 with 5000 clicks on the shutter for around the price of a tank of fuel, so I went for the (slight) upgrade and took it on its maiden voyage to Egypt and Ladakh for two months.

My original Olympus E-M5. You will see the LCD screen is gone. It got smashed beyond repair when I was in Vietnam so I had to remove it completely and cover the back with a small piece of leather (and go old school) just shooting through the viewfinder.

And with that, here are some brief thoughts about the two models as travel and documentary tools.

Cons:
● The only con was getting used to the feel of a different camera in hand as the dials & shutter button are slightly different. But that’s not performance, only personal.

Pros:
● The build quality is easily more robust and durable in wild weather. It has better ergonomics with the built-in grip and improved balance with the 12-40mm F2.8 PRO lens.

● With the updated autofocus system featuring more focus points and phase detection, it locked on more accurately and faster. It was noticeable, but only by a small margin.

● The larger and clearer viewfinder was a welcomed improvement, as it’s extremely rare that I use the LCD screen for shooting or composition.

● That brilliant (non-intrusive) Silent Shutter Mode. A firmware update on the E-M1 that is not available on the E-M5. If it were only for this upgrade, it still would have been worth it, as mentioned above.

All images taken with the Olympus OM-D E-M1 + M.Zuiko 12-40mm F2.8 PRO lens.

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The Giza Plateau, EGYPT
The great pyramids, birthed some 4500 years ago, are undoubtedly one of the most incredible sights one can gaze upon.

They are enigmatic marvels that have baffled the most remarkable minds across eons, and despite the passage of time, the intricacies of their creation remain a mystery, a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of ancient hands.

The pyramids, once symbols of grandeur and splendor during the era of the illustrious Pharaohs, now stand against a backdrop of smog and urban chaos. The remnants of their former glory are veiled by pollution, and the surrounding landscape is marred by a sea of rubbish and persistent peddlers.

But if you take the time to venture out and find a quiet place among the dunes, far away from the chaos, you can still sit in wonder and awe, absorbing one of humankind’s most outstanding achievements.

Under the blistering sun, it was one fine day.

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Cairo, EGYPT
A wave of hums grows louder as you step within the marble pillars, a space filled with recited prayers, some whispered as the head touches the ground, others proud in volume, projecting praise for their god and his teachings. Eyes wander the holy enclave, then catch your own and hold in a stare, either curious or confused, as worlds away are these faces, from their own to mine.

Inside the Al Azhar Mosque in the heart of the Old Cairo.

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Aswan, EGYPT
In the South of Egypt, inside a vintage French taxi, a Sudanese driver smokes British cigarettes while outside, a barrage of noise, clutter and chaos is only exceeded by the scorching heat that melts the pavement on the streets of the Nile-lined city.

Negotiations for the simplest of transactions become intricate dances, where the price of a journey may involve more twists and turns than the route itself.

So, if you don’t accept the proposed price, neither will your counterpart and the endless haggle begins. Even after, you may end up at a distant relative’s store for a “look” at his wares or be told at the destination that “local tax” wasn’t included in the agreed price.

As savvy or experienced as you think you are, there is always a plot twist as to why, once again, you must reach into your pocket. But in the end, more often than not, there’s a grin, a nod, and a handshake (sometimes even a shared coffee) to clear the air in agreement that the “agreement” is complete.

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Thiksey, LADAKH
At first light, horns bellow from the rooftop of Thiskey Monastery, announcing the arrival of a new day.

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Thiksey Monastery, LADAKH
Within the hallowed halls of Thiskey Monastery, devotion echoes through the air. Chants and incense intermingle, creating an ethereal ambience that bridges the chasm between centuries. Here, rituals remain unchanged, an unbroken thread connecting the present to an ancient past.

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Thiksey Monastery, LADAKH
Standing as a sentinel, a colossal statue of Maitreya Buddha radiates serenity and peace carved by hands long ago.

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Cairo, EGYPT
In this juxtaposition of youthful exuberance and ancient architecture, the Al Azhar Mosque is a harmonious convergence of the past and the present. Its majestic and imposing minarets serve not only as architectural marvels but also as conduits of spiritual connection, invoking a sense of reverence that resonates through the heart of Cairo’s vibrant soul.

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Aswan, EGYPT
Nestled within the alleyways of Aswan, the ancient souks (markets) beckon with an irresistible charm and intensity – a treasure trove for the consumer. These vibrant hubs pulse with the energy of daily life, offering a glimpse into the city’s history.

In a landscape where supermarkets are a rarity and extravagance, these markets, where “the camel butcher” holds court, cater to the diverse needs of the local populace, serving as a one-stop emporium, and although not a highlight on most menus in the country, it is a staple that has its place in the family dinner rotation, that being the meat of camel.

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Luxor, EGYPT
The Karnak Temple complex dedicated to Amun, Mut and Khonsu is the largest religious building ever constructed. Known as Ipet-isu or “most select of places” by the Ancient Egyptians, it is a city of temples built over 2,000 years from 2055 BC to 100AD, making its initial conception a staggering 4000 years old.
The massive columns in the Hypostyle Hall dwarf anyone wandering its stone paths, with the gigantic pillars standing 80 feet tall in bewildering quantity. Covering an area of 50,000sq ft, it easily overshadows many wonders of the ancient and modern world.

Imagine in its glory days, filled with people in elaborate clothing, draped in gold and water features flowing through its halls, while surfaces bursting with ornate paintings and inscriptions tell its rich tales. It is truly a masterpiece of creation by humans that will stand long after we fall, time being irrelevant against its walls.

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Thiksey Monastery, LADAKH
As the sun begins its mesmerizing descent behind the Himalayan peaks, a breathtaking spectacle unfolds at the Thiskey Monastery.

The golden hues of twilight embrace the ancient structure, casting a warm, ethereal glow upon its timeworn walls. The gentle chant of a monk circling the stupas reverberates in the air, harmonizing with the whispers of the wind that carries the scent of blossoming pines from the valley below.

High above the world, its weathered stones, steeped in centuries of history, exude a sense of wisdom and calm that stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of life.

In a fleeting moment, time rests in ambience, yet with the certainty that these flags will dance, the years hasten their pace, and we too shall journey as these winds do, over the mountains and into the ether of memory, floating across the vast plains.

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Hemis Monastery, LADAKH
Since the 1630s, the monastery has been the hallowed grounds for an annual tradition spanning two centuries. During this remarkable event, various assemblies of monk’s don vibrant clay masks and meticulously crafted ensembles, then, for two enthralling days, they partake in mesmerizing dances and rituals, commemorating the timeless triumph of virtue over malevolence while invoking blessings of rejuvenation upon the land.

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Hemis Monastery, LADAKH
As night embraces the Himalayan sanctuary, a monk seeks solace within the confines of his simple chamber, resting upon a mat of reed and a pillow of humility.

Lulled by a symphony of breeze passing through corridors and the distant hymns from within the temple, he drifts, traversing the internal landscape of thoughts, where realities meld with the ineffable, where the temporal and the eternal intertwine.

It is a life enshrined in simplicity and spiritual seeking for those who dare to traverse the ethereal peaks of the mind.

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Cairo, EGYPT
From the gates of the Citadel, a formidable sandstorm sweeps in from the western expanse, casting an impenetrable orange shroud across the city. Life is blinded as airports, businesses, and transit succumb to their might.

These sandstorms grace the annals of each year, yet seldom do they amass to this colossal scale.

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Cairo, EGYPT
In the heart of Cairo, the ornate domes of the Muhammad Ali Mosque stand tall, a resplendent marvel of Ottoman architecture. Its elegant minarets reach toward the heavens, beckoning the faithful to gather as one while a symphony of voices prepares to call upon their god.

“Allahu Akbar, Allahu Akbar…”

The call to prayer begins, and its melodious intonation pierces the air, drawing the hearts of the faithful and the curious alike. It is a sound that transcends time and a reminder of how far from home shores tonight I lay.

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Aswan, EGYPT
The ancient Egyptians possessed an unwavering reverence for the divine, with their belief system being infused within every aspect of their lives.

A pantheon of gods and goddesses guided their actions and shaped their moral and social codes. The pharaoh, revered as the earthly representative of the gods, ruled with divine authority and brought a sense of unity to the realm. This spiritual connection fostered a cohesive society, driving the Egyptians to create monumental structures dedicated to their gods, such as the Temple of Phile, which continues to astound today.

Amongst the thousands of massive carvings depicting the gods are the inscriptions of the ornate pictorial alphabet, telling the stories of this eons-old civilization, and one, in particular, mentions a date, and so it was declared to be the last written hieroglyphs by the once mighty dynasty in 394 AD before Christianity swept the shores in 550AD.

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Thiksey Monastery, LADAKH
At an altitude of 4000mtrs, undiluted light burns across the courtyard at sunrise, re-warming the blood of the Monasteries’ residence, cool from the icy night.

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Hemis, LADAKH
There are very few places that teach us undiluted lessons in humanity and humility, such as on the road.
It humbles us by exposing the limitations of our knowledge and the narrowness of our perspectives of what lies beyond our daily familiarities. We shed the arrogance that often accompanies ignorance and embrace the humility that comes with acknowledging the vastness and complexity of cultures that differ from our own, as the more we immerse, the more we are humbled by how very little we know.

In the warm embrace of new friendships, reaching beyond the surface, hopes and dreams shimmer, unaffected by geographical divides. Laughter, sharing, and human connection become common, recognizing the universality of joy, love, compassion, fear and dreams that thread our souls, no matter our exterior.

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Hemis, LADAKH
In the heart of these mountains, devotion finds expression in the spinning of a giant prayer wheel. Worshippers’ hearts entwined with ancient teachings seek to accumulate merit and purify karma outside the Hemis Monastery.

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Cairo, EGYPT
The Great Mosque of Muhammad Ali Pasha, an architectural marvel, commands attention with its grandeur.

Five times a day, when the call to prayer is answered, hundreds flock into its corridors and halls for worship, and as pictured, many in traditional Islamic full-length Niqab Burqa, a complete body and face-covering veil, usually in black, which differs from the everyday Hijab.

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Cairo, EGYPT
It’s 9am in the massive halls of the Rifa’i Mosque, and it’s strangely empty. There are no calls to prayer, worshipers, tourists and, most notably, no sound. A silence so loud you can hear the ringing in your ears derived from the chaotic streets ventured to reach this place.

Walking deeper into its grand halls, faint noises begin creeping through the silence, its origins uncertain as it echoes softly and carries up beyond the massive ceilings.

Then, through the darkness, an outline of a person, dormant, still and unresponsive to my approach. In silence, one moves in, and the creator of the ambient noise becomes clear. With head and hands against the maqsurah, facing Mecca, prayers are spoken in almost tongues, as words and sentences blend.

In silence, my presence is unnoticed, while relentless devotion is witnessed.

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The Pyramids of Giza, EGYPT
Children fly kites and laugh from rooftops in simplistic joy as the irresistible aroma of coffee, warm and cupped in one’s hand, enhances a brief moment of peace and contentment.

Beautiful little joys found in faraway pockets (shared with a stray).

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Leh, LADAKH
A monk makes his way down the rocky scree from the Tsemo Maitreya Temple, perched high above the township of Leh.

“Little Tibet” is what this Northern State of India is referred to, as it has one the highest concentration of monasteries, stupas and places of worship for Buddhism in the world.

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Leh, LADAKH
The incredible detail and beauty of traditional Tibetan dress, proudly worn in the Himalayan town of Leh.
Beyond the aesthetic splendor, what truly sets Leh apart is its people’s genuine and profound warmth. It’s a sensation beyond mere hospitality; it’s as if each interaction is infused with a deep-rooted kindness that instantly makes you feel like a welcomed friend.

In a world where genuine connections sometimes feel fleeting, Leh is a poignant reminder that humanity’s capacity for authentic compassion is alive and thriving.

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Leh, LADAKH
In the deepest abyss of despair and uncertainty, shadows cloak the heart, yet within the darkness lie the seeds of resilience, awaiting a gentle reminder, such as this moment, that it takes compassion for a garden of healing and strength to grow.

Above the town of Leh, alone in a moment of crippling uncertainty, my eyes are frozen on the horizon. Then, wearing colorful headscarves and strolling up the dusty path to join the sun in its encore, a mother and daughter perch, eating ice cream while smiling, giggling and shouldering each other in a moment of pure joy, as if this afternoon, they have their own secret ritual, just for the two.

Guiding hearts to beat closer.